Exeter is Excellent

We spent today in Exeter, as we are staying a few miles out, just beyond the village of Tedburn Saint Mary, in a two storey bed and breakfast with a thatched roof and beautiful gardens.

Exeter is a cathedral and a university city. When the Romans arrived, they built a large wooden garrison, but they only stayed about twenty years. At some point a wall was built around the site, as protection.

There are excellent public toilets, down a flight of steps from a square just a short walk from the Cathedral area. I was scratching in my purse for the required 20 pence, but only had one pound coins and one 10 pence. A woman on her way in asked, "Do you want to come in?". It was a turn style so she said, "Come on, we can both fit.". She inserted her 20 pence, I moved in very close behind her, she turned the bar as we both shuffled forward together. "We did it," she said, with an edge of triumph in her voice. I just love such moments!

Today in Exeter, 70% of the city wall is still standing. The red stone around the arch, said our guide John, shows us this was a medieval gateway cut into the city wall. John is one of many volunteers who run the FREE GUIDED 'red coat' tours for Exeter Council.



The cathedral was finished in 1059, which is amazing when you think the Battle of Hastings was 1066. In fact, we saw the remains of a castle William The Conqueror built WITHIN the city walls. He was worried that the mother of King Alfred would raise an army against him. So he marched on Exeter, laid siege to the town, and was only admitted 18 days later on special conditions.

So his castle is unusual in that it does not FACE OUT to see enemies approaching the town. It is built WITHIN the city walls, in one corner, and looks IN TO THE CITY, in case of an uprising against him from the townsfolk.


William himself did not stay here long. Right beside this ruin is the plaque below, in memory of the last poor women who were killed for suspicion of witchcraft in Devon, right near this site.



Because J.K. Rowling went to University in Exeter, it's believed this narrow alleyway of shops may have been the inspiration for Dragon's Alley, where Harry Potter was kitted out for the school year at Hogwarts.


Even more narrow is Parliament Street, at one point measuring less than three feet across. The story goes that a certain Act of Parliament promised more than it delivered and local people here were angry enough to rename this ancient narrow thoroughfare, expressing their contempt for their narrow-minded politicians.







John took us into the Guild Hall, which is one of the oldest buildings in original continuous use in England.

The door is of two parts. One smaller door set for individual access, and the large surround for more grand entrances.




The Mayor sits up on the high bench, where once also a Magistrate or Judge would have also sat.


The gardens just to the north of the city walls are so old they are believed to be the first public gardens in England. A delightful little plaque can be found there, commemorating a pigeon war heroine!


The Dickinson Medal, said John, was the highest award possible for an animal.

Indeed, the Second World War had a significant impact on Exeter. In retaliation for bombing a target in Germany Hitler claimed was not a military target, Hitler chose five non-military and culturally significant places in England. Exeter was one of the five. So a lot of the city centre is very new.







In one redevelopment, to their credit, they lined up to provide a splendid view of Exeter Cathedral.




On one side of the Cathedral large open expanses of green lawn provide space for people to just gather in good weather.





We sat this morning at Drake's for a pot of tea, at an outdoor table. I asked the waiter how often the weather allowed them to use this area. He assured me it only rained in Exeter on days that end with 'y'.